My husband teaches English at an institute part time here in Damascus. One of his classes invited him and his wife (that’s me) to an end of the semester class dinner. So on the last day of their class I hung out in the teacher’s lounge of the institute, waiting until their final exam finished so that we could head out to the restaurant together… I’m just chilling, reading some English literature they have available for the teachers, when I overhear some of the other American teachers talking; it seems like it’s been a long time since I’ve heard Americans speak, and I instantly miss the U.S.
“Aiite man, I’ll see you later. Take care of yourself.”
After an hour or so I walk out to meet my husband’s class in front of the institute. All fifteen of them at once. They’re a little 90210, one guy with hair sticking straight up, half of them on cell phones, the other half staring in wonder. I’m not sure what they were expecting, but I guess it wasn’t someone who looks like me
We’re going to split up in their cars. Okay. A black Mercedes pulls up, and a girl pops out of the driver’s seat, all fly-away hair and sparkly. Hi! She introduces herself and I get in. Leather seats? Well, it’s been a long time. She’s sweet, the driver girl, and tries to chat with me in English on the way to the restaurant, switching to Arabic for the girls in the back. She has blonde streaks (it looks nice, not cheap), a cut that puts her bangs in her eyes half the time; she’s wearing big funky jewelery, jeans and a cropped sweater over a full-sleeved shirt. I feel instantly frumpy and old in my black monteau, worn on top of a black jilbab and a gray hijab (which took a lot of time pinning by the way
). I don’t have a hijab complex, but the black on black on black ensemble of the student in Syria gets tiresome sometimes. I miss being stylish. I need to go shopping, I tell myself. Turns out she’s 34 and has three children (”What!” I exclaim, doing a double take. She looks about 22), and she wants to work for the U.N. She’s the daughter of some big-time politician, so that explains the Mercedes
Most of the students that are studying English are doing so for their work or future work, and the group is, generally speaking, pretty well-off. It’s a bit weird, that due to our English skills we have this connection with the wealthy of Syria, and at the same time we live with the humble students on a limited budget.
We cruise to Haaretna, a popular restaurant in Bab Tuma, the traditionally Christian area of town. It’s a little bit before Christmas, and on the way we see young men at the street lights selling lit-up Santa Claus hats. I notice the number of Christmas lights hanging on people’s balconies to celebrate the Christian holidays. As we approach the neighborhood, we see the huge wall that once stood on the outskirts of the city, but now demarcates the ‘old’ city from the ‘new’; Damascus used to be enclosed by a huge fortified wall, with various gates or ‘baabs’. (Bab Tuma = St. Thomas Gate, the entry way into the Christian quarter).
We stop abruptly in the middle of the street and get out of the car; a valet guy hops in and drives away with it. We see a sign for the restaurant, but have to walk through a number of alleyways before we get there. We enter throught a small door that opens up into a huge courtyard, with hundreds of chairs and tables and a fountain flowing in the center. There’s a balcony level floor above, that surrounds the courtyard, with more diners. This is an old Damascus house, converted to a restaurant, which is a common thing in the Old City. Since extended families don’t live together anymore these enormous houses have fallen into disuse, until someone came up with the ingenious idea to start making them into restaurants. There are Christmas lights everywhere, and a lit up Santa trying to make his way over the balcony.
We sit, and they instantly order nargeela, and some light up cigarettes. Man, this is one of those Syrian things I hate. Don’t they know that smoking is out of fashion in the U.S.? And there’s no concept of a ‘non-smoking area’ in restaurants. The only non-smoking area in Syria is your own house
Nargeela also drives me crazy. It seems like millions of hours are wasted away in the Arab world everyday due to this habit. I chug water, feeling nervous. I feel a lot of curious eyes on me. We’re a funny group, I think: a bunch of well-off Syrian youth, and me and my husband, looking like typical students with his long beard and my hijab.
The food was good, the ambiance a little surreal (for this resident of Rukn ad-Deen, where you can speak fushaa with the vegetable guy and he doesn’t bat an eyelash). Subhan’Allah, this city has so many facets, is such a synthesis of old and new, tradition and modernity. Dinner next to an ancient wall in an ancient city, in an olden-days courtyard, but decked with christmas lights, and filled with people rocking D&G and using bluetooth! SubhanAllah.
(Written December 2007)










